Emissions
Diagnostic Checklist
| 1.
Verify the symptoms
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If the problem involves drivability, test-drive the
vehicle first, if at all possible. Perform a preliminary
visual and/or functional check. Look for damaged or
disconnected wires, connections, and vacuum lines. Make
sure the vehicle is adjusted to manufacturer specs
regarding timing, dwell, idle speed, etc. Don't forget to
check for correct timing also at cruise. Access any TSBs
or recall notices. Follow the diagnostic flow chart.
| 2.
Look at the temperature gauge
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If the vehicle is warmed up and the temperature is still
cold, you may have a defective gauge, bad thermostat, the
incorrect stat for that vehicle, or a defective ECT
sensor.
| 3.
Look at the air filter and breather
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If they're dirty and clogged, replace them. High CO can
result from a restricted air intake.
| 4.
Check the PCV valve carefully
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Is it sticking open or sticking closed? Are the passages
clogged or is the hose itself collapsing? A defective PCV
can cause high CO or HC readings. A high CO reading will
result if the crankcase oil is contaminated with fuel. A
high HC reading will result if the PCV valve does not
meter the airflow properly, if the incorrect valve is
installed of if the vacuum side of the system is leaking
air (such as through a cracked or broken hose, loose
fitting, etc).
| 5.
Check the carburetor/fuel injection system
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Is there a vacuum leak at the baseplate? Is the choke
stuck open? Are there any leaking fuel lines or
injectors? On fuel-injected vehicles it is crucial to
check for proper fuel pressure; pressure that's too high
or too low causes high emissions and drivability
problems.
| 6.
Inspect the vacuum lines and connections
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Look for holes, cracks, disconnected, misconnected, or
missing lines, or lines plugged off with screws or BBs.
All the high-tech diagnosis in the world won't help if
you've got uncorrected vacuum leaks.
Another condition to be corrected or eliminated is
catalytic converter failure or a blocked exhaust system.
To check for proper operation, first block the wheels,
put the vehicle in Neutral or Park, disconnect the air
injection system and check that all fluid levels are
satisfactory for safe operation. (Caution: do not
use these procedures for BMW, Peugeot, or Volvos with ZF
automatic transmissions!)
A)
Disconnect the evaporative canister purge line.
B)
Measure the HC, CO, CO2, and O2 tailpipe readings with
the engine at idle and at normal operating temperature.
C) If
CO and HC are above specs but CO2 is low and O2 is
between 1% and 2%, the problem could be either temporary
saturation of the catalytic converter or a defective cat.
D) To
check for temporary saturation of the cat, run the engine
at 2500 rpm for three minutes and observe the HC, CO, and
CO2 readings. If the cat is functioning properly, CO and
HC readings should decrease and CO2 should increase. If
CO and HC do not decrease but CO2 does, repeat the
procedure. If CO and HC still do not decrease, go to step
6 above.
E)
Check the O2 level. If it is below 1%, the engine may be
running too rich. Investigate and repair. If the O2 rises
above 3 or 4%, the engine may go into a lean misfire,
causing HC to rise. Again, investigate and repair. Note:
the use of oxygenated fuels may push the O2 up to 3 or 4%
even though nothing is wrong.
F)
Connect a vacuum gauge up to a manifold vacuum source.
G)
Disconnect and plug the EGR valve.
H)
Observe manifold vacuum at idle. Most vehicles will
produce 17 to 21 incehs of vacuum. Some will produce only
as much as 14 to 16 inches, but this must be suspect if
the reading is this low. The vacuum gauge needle must be
holding fairly steady without wild swings back and forth.
I)
Accelerate the engine to 2500 rpm and observe manifold
vacuum for at least 15 seconds. If system vacuum is high
and steady, the exhaust system is probably ok. If the
vacuum drops, check for damage to the exhaust system. If
there is no damage apparent, remove and inspect the cat
for internal damage.
The
most important point to all of this is to remember the
basics. When you see a doctor, he takes your temperature
and blood pressure, and asks you to explain your symptoms
before he starts testing. Rule out or correct all the
obvious problems first before spending time on electronic
diagnosis. If you've done everything you can think of and
a problem persists, call a tech hotline. Be prepared to
give the model, engine size and other details about the
vehicle and what you have done, in that order.
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